A Visit to Quebec City: Discovering 400 years of history and a Distinct Society/la société distincte

Vieux Quebec with the Chateau Frontenac

Back in grade nine, our social studies course, called Canadiana 9, focused on the history of the nation. New France, Upper Canada, Lower Canada, the Plains of Abraham, Wolfe and Montcalm are historic topics and words that have stuck in my mind over the decades. 

As a reporter in the 1980s and 1990s, the seemingly endless constitutional debates between Canada and Quebec were mainstays of the daily news. As a westerner, I don’t think I fully appreciated all the points of view in Quebec.  


The National Assembly

Proposed amendments to the Constitution would have inserted the phrase “distinct society” to recognize the difference of Quebec from the rest of Canada. But since the 1990s, the distinct society phrase appears to have faded and with this year’s Quebec provincial election, Quebec separation  also seems to be on the backburner.

 In any event, my four days in Quebec City in June prompted me to take another look at my views and come to the conclusion that Quebec is in fact a distinct place – within Canada.   

St. Roch Church



Putting aside the political discussions, Quebec City is a great visual, cultural, historic and architectural destination with all of its churches, cobblestone streets, terraces, staircases, pointed copper roofs and expansive vistas of the St. Lawrence River. 

Place Royale



400 years of history   

Quebec City fast food - avec poutine

Quebec's newest member of the National Assembly?  

 



 

 

 

Montréal en hiver

Instead of heading back to the West Coast for the holidays, I decided to venture east to Montreal to experience that city in the winter.

The Montreal skyline - view from the Port of Montreal.

 

The trip on Via Rail made for some snowy train stop vistas along the Toronto-Montreal corridor.

The Queen Elizabeth on Boul. Rene Levesque on the right.

My home for three nights in Montreal was the Fairmont La Reine Elizabeth Hotel.  Located above the central train station and built in 1958, the hotel is billed as the largest hotel east of Toronto and is famous for hosting heads of state at Expo 67 and being the host hotel for the International Olympic Committee for the 1976 Olympic Games.  And it’s the place where John Lennon and Yoko Ono staged a "bed-in" in 1969.  OK, these are some trivial facts, but all contribute to the history of the hotel.

 



The owner of Beautys:  Hymie Sckolnick.

 

Of course, the focus of any trip is experiencing local food.  A lunch stop was at a luncheonette called Beautys. It has been serving meals since 1942 in the heart of Montreal’s Jewish garment district. There's plenty of atmosphere. I had the Special - a bagel sandwich made with lox, cream cheese, sliced tomatoes and onion.

 

A trip to Montreal is not complete without smoked meat sandwiches and poutine. Waiting in line (left) with the tourists for a sandwich à la viande fumée lunch (right) at Schwartz's Deli.

  A colleague recommended a “Montreal Special” at the Montreal Pool Room.  The street location isn’t great, but the meal inside, poutine and two “steamies” hot dogs, was tasty.

 

My search for decent mandarin oranges here in parts east continued with a stop at the Jean Talon Public Market. Again, as in Toronto, I found clementines. At least the oranges were sweet and easy-to-peel.

The most local food was a traditional holiday meal at the home of my Quebec friends Ginette and Yvon, They welcomed me to a family celebration – complete with jambon (ham) and Tourtière (French Canadian meat pie).

Bonne année!



The Montreal skyline from Mont Royal.