Saturday, November 22, 2014

Historic Halifax

Halifax has been on my list of places to visit for years in order to see the spot where my parents and sister landed decades ago to start their life in Canada.
 
As more than a million people did between the end of World War 2 and 1971, my family arrived at Pier 21 in Halifax.

Unfortunately, Canadian Museum of Immigration is closed for renovations.  But I was able to imagine what my father, mother and sister felt when they arrived in Canada after a long boat journey across the Atlantic Ocean. 
The experience is shown in a new statue called The Emigrant.  The bronze and marble monument depicts an emigrant leaving his home country to start a new life in Canada.
Speaking of the Atlantic, I certainly had a great stroke of luck when I signed up at the visitors centre on the harbourfront for a tour of Peggy’s Cove.  I showed up for my 2 o’clock tour to find that I was the only participant. Only in Halifax, would a tour run for just one person!
 
My guide, Blair Beed, is a Halifax historian.  He runs Dtours Visitors and Convention Services. For $40, I enjoyed an excellent adventure along the shore to Peggy’s Cove with its rugged coastline, fishing village and famous lighthouse.  What a way to experience the Halifax area with a one-on-one conversation with a great storyteller.



No visit to Halifax is complete without sampling the local seafood.  I did my part with five bowls of fish chowder.  Every bowl was different with a variety of creamy textures and flavours and seafood.  My highlight meal was a lobster clubhouse sandwich at the Stubborn Goat Gastropub.
There must have been more than a half a pound of lobster stuffed into the sandwich!
In addition to seafood, Halifax is home to fine beers including the famed Alexander Keith’s.  Another benefit of travelling in the low season, only half a dozen folks were on my tour of one of the oldest commercial breweries in North America. So we had plenty of fun participating with the actors who took us back in time to the mid 1800s to learn about Keith and the brewing process.  The tour included two glasses of beer. 



Joseph Howe statue at Province House
And as I do in capital cities, I visited the legislature. Legislators have met every year since 1819 in Nova Scotia’s Province House, making it the longest serving legislative building in Canada.  As I was the only tourist on a rainy Monday afternoon, the commissionaires let me wander around the building. 
Inside the N.S. Legislature
I learned about Joseph Howe, a newspaper editor who was acquitted of libel in 1835. He is noted in history as a defender of freedom of the press and a champion of responsible government in Nova Scotia.
In the words of a popular folk song, here are a few more pictures as I say "Farewell to Nova Scotia!"
 
Georges Island in Halifax Harbour
 
Farmers Market on a busy Saturday morning

  
The Halifax skyline